2024

ROAD TRIP

DAY FIVE

Gardiner, MT — Meeteetse, WY

250 miles

We got up really early today for two reasons: we wanted to make it to the entrance of the park before the rangers got there (which was supposedly at 7 AM) so we wouldn’t have to pay, and also Jack’s sleeping bag was really wet by his feet where he had been pressing up against the tent. It turns out that when Anna said “waterproof” what she meant, obviously, was that if Jack touched the side of the tent at any point during the night he would get soaked. Jack thought she had meant that he would be safe from water completely, but he now knew to ask more questions.

Anna was very excited when she woke up to see that we were not the only Toyota Camry to have made the treacherous trek up the bumpy road. We quickly packed the soaked tent and sleeping bag into the car, intending to dry them out later that day, and made our way back down the road, which was a lot easier in the light.

We made it to the north entrance around 6:45 AM and quite sneakily pulled up to the ranger who was waiting for us, and we sheepishly paid the $30 fee. Feeling slightly less sneaky, we drove into the park. As we climbed higher and higher, we quickly forgot about the price as we slowly broke through the fog to see the beautiful valleys laid out before us, switching from one side of the road to the other as we snaked through the pass. We found a pull-out that had a trailhead nearby and tucked into our bag of chicken for breakfast before heading down the trail to the Yellowstone river. Absolutely amazing wildlife, including another group of hikers, a fly-fisherman, and a couple of ducks.

We continued up into the park, and made it to one of the highest points in the park (that you can drive to; obviously if we had been flying that would have been a different story…). An absolutely stunning vista greeted our eyes as the very last of the fog vanished. We got out of the car (by the way, around this time we decided that since we spent so long telling the Camry that it could do it when we were struggling up hills, we decided to rename it Jeffrey; it was either that or “The Little Engine” but Bo Burnham is very slightly more topical). We stared in awe for a couple of minutes, before Jeffrey’s gurglings prompted us to check the coolant, which, of course, needed refilling. Then we stared in awe at the amount of coolant we had left before continuing on.

Our next stop was the Grand Canyon. Of Yellowstone, which is legally distinct. It was still very impressive, and we had a nice little hike along the side of it. We could see on the other side of the canyon a bunch of people who were at “Painter’s Point” so we paused at a suitable spot and posed for them. Hopefully, some of the sharper eyed among them made sure to include us in their landscapes.

We then decided to check out Norris basin, which has a bunch of geysers and springs and pools all very close to each other. Unfortunately, by this time there were a bunch of people in the park, and they tended to crowd towards the popular places, of which Norris basin was one. We spent quite a stressful moment or two looking for parking. During this extremely tense situation, we discovered that Jack and Anna have very different ideas of the proper way to look for parking in a busy parking lot. Anna wanted to immediately stop and camp behind any car that looked like it might be leaving anytime in the next few hours and Jack wanted to drive around in circles until the Lord provided a clear space. The situation was aggravated by a park employee who walked up to any car that had the audacity to pause momentarily and yell at them to keep moving. A quick summary of the situation:

ANNA

There! They are leaving!

JACK (slowing down)

Are you sure?

ANNA (Confidently)

Yes!

JACK (Doubtfully)

I don’t know…

EMPLOYEE (Loudly and angrily)

Keep it moving!!!

JACK (Speeding up)

I don’t think they are, Anna.

ANNA (Angrily)

Jack!

EMPLOYEE (Even more angrily)

I said keep it moving!

JACK (Panicking)

AAAAAHHHH!!!

And repeat that cycle for about 10 minutes. Eventually, the Lord took pity on us and a parking spot opened up very close to the trailhead that led into the basin and Jack promptly took it. Jack would like to point out that we did indeed find a spot by following his strategy, and a good one at that. Anna would like to point out that we could have gotten a spot more quickly if we had just ignored the employee and the line of cars behind us, and that there was no guarantee we would have found a spot with Jack’s strategy, we just got lucky.

Anyway, the basin itself was incredible. There were boardwalks that took you right over the thermal ground, weaving between pools and basins. Helpful signs along the boardwalk informed us that the different colors of the rocks around the pools, and beneath and alongside our boardwalk, were caused by the different types of algae that lived there. Each species of algae survives at a different temperature, and each species is a different color. These same helpful signs also told us just how hot the temperature was at which each species thrived, so that the brightly colored mats of algae around us let us know just exactly how much it would hurt if we fell off of the boardwalk. Helpfully, the boardwalk was lined with no fence or guardrails at all, in order to facilitate the falling off process. We survived, however, and got to see some really cool natural phenomena.

As we were walking, Jack pointed out all of the Asians and Indians that we passed, who were the majority of the people in the park, and Anna pointed out all of the geezers that we passed; not old people, Anna just liked mispronouncing the word ‘geyser’ because she originally had pronounced it that way and didn’t want to stop. Also, she thought it was funny to have Jack pose in front of one ‘geezer’ called Fearless Geyser and pretend that the sign was talking about him. Jack objected to this, on the grounds that he isn’t that old yet.

We also got to see Steamboat Geezer, which last erupted on July 15th, and apparently would erupt again anywhere between four hours from then and fifty years. It did not erupt while we were where there, which was just as well, since signs in the parking lot warned us that if Steamboat Geezer did erupt, then our car would probably get hit with water and debris, and might lose its paint as well due to the acid in the water. Thankfully, Jeffrey was perfectly fine, and we headed out to the next stop.

Our next stop was Midway Basin. Thankfully, the parking was not as stressful, because there wasn’t a an actual parking lot, just people pulled off the side of the road, so there wasn’t much choice except to continue on until we found an empty spot. When we parked, we pulled out the tent and the sleeping bag and hung them up to dry on the door of the car while we ate lunch. This time, we decided to get fancy: Jack put his chunks of meat onto one of the bagels we had, and Anna ate the other option of chunks of meat, the carnitas, instead of the chicken. Once we had finished, and the tent was dry, we walked over to Midway Basin along Fire Hole River, so called because one of the springs in Midway Basin, Excelsior Spring, dumps 4,000 gallons of boiling water into the river every minute. This spring reminded us of a tropical beach at some parts, and Anna wanted to go swimming, but thankfully there were signs nearby that said “No No Touch” so that dummies like us wouldn’t do exactly that.

While walking around the edge of the Grand Prismatic Spring, we noticed that there was a group of hikers on the nearby hill that seemed to have a much better view of the colorful spring (that is to say, a much higher view). We pulled up our map (which Jack remembered to download before we lost service) and found the trailhead that led to the overlook. We headed over there and got a nice high up view of the spring, as well as a bunch of winded people who didn’t seem to have known that they would have to actually hike at any point while exploring Yellowstone National Park.

Next we stopped at the little known geyser Old Faithful. We spent the better part of 20 minutes trying to get to a good viewing spot before we realized that we were actually getting farther away from Old Faithful. Turns out, Old Faithful was not with the huge group of geysers over here, it was all on its lonesome over there. We hurried over, anxious to be close by when it erupted, and made it just in time to wait for thirty minutes until it erupted. It was quite awesome, and a little weird to see tons of water thrown into the air.

The next thing we wanted to do was stop at the edge of Yellowstone Lake by West Thumb Basin and check it out, and then eat dinner by the lakeside. When we plugged the destination into maps, however, it insisted that there was a road closure and that we would need to go all the way around the other way. We decided to ignore its lies and took the ‘closed road’. As the app freaked out and told us to make U-turns over and over again, we enjoyed the lovely view of the forest as we drove through the park. Eventually, the map settled down, since we had passed the supposed road closure area, and it helpfully told us that our trip had been cut down from 2.5 hours to 15 minutes. There were more geezers in the basin, including some that were in the lake. It was all pretty cool.

On our way to our dinner spot, we stopped along the lake shore and Anna contemplated swimming while Jack looked around the lake hoping to see a bear close enough to be impressive but far enough to be beatable in a foot race to the car. Alas, Anna decided not to go swimming, and Jack did not see a bear. The view was pretty, of course.

CAR

TENT

We stopped for dinner at a little picnic spot next to the lake. We dined once again on delicious chunks of meat. This time, both Jack and Anna ate the carnitas. It was exactly when Jack took his first bite of the carnitas that he realized they were infinitely more tasty than the chicken, which was very dry and not holding up all that well. While we ate, a dude and his family were also eating dinner nearby. The dude was playing his guitar and pointing out different animals to his kids. We took full advantage of his services, enjoying his tunes and looking at the animals he pointed out, which included a pair of otters, some ducks, and a bald eagle that flew over us. Dinner and a show.

After dinner we finally headed toward the exit of the park. This time we were going to exit from the East entrance and drive for about an hour to the town of Cody, WY, where we planned to do the same thing as the last night. The day’s adventures were over we thought. And we were right. But the night’s adventures were just beginning. Just as we were exiting the park it began to rain. Now we knew that it rained in other places during summer, so intellectually we were prepared for this. Physically, however, we were not prepared. Jack was fairly certain that the he was going to end up soaked in his ‘waterproof’ tent if he tried to camp in the rain. We hoped that it would stop raining by the time we made it to Cody so that Jack wouldn’t be too miserable that night. Our fears were immediately not allayed by the fact that the rain very quickly became much heavier. What started as a few drops turned into a torrent. It was then that we made the discovery that our windshield wipers were not the most effective wipers you had ever seen. In fact, they stunk, although they were slightly better than our headlights, which are angled so as to point at the ground so closely in front of the car that their is very little time to react when something appears. Even the brights barely do anything, especially in heavy rain. Jack huddled over the steering wheel as we climbed into the mountains on a narrow, windy road, with rain pouring down, two windshield wipers flinging water left and right, but never quite all the way off the windshield itself, and two headlights that helpfully illuminated the ten feet of road directly in front of the car.

At this point, of course, the lightning started. Every few seconds, lightning would flash, and thunder would roll, but because we were crawling through a mountain pass, most of the strikes weren’t visible. Instead, they would light up the huge peaks and drop-offs on either side of the road that were invisible otherwise. Every once in a while, we would be able to see the strike, and it would light up the whole area, making it even more clear how perilous the road we were on was, and just how dim our headlights really were. Still thinking about his comfort that night, Jack, his eyes glued to what he hope was the road, asked Anna to check the weather in Cody and see if it was raining over there, and, if it was, whether it was supposed to stop anytime soon. Anna helpfully informed Jack that she had no service, so they would have to wait until they were out of the mountains. Now we really must commend Jeffrey for his valiant effort during this trying time. Normally, the cruise control didn’t work at all, but for some reason it revived itself for this trip, and Jack was able to park himself at 50 mph and focus entirely on steering, which was nice, too, because Jeffrey hates going up hills, and tends to not listen unless you put the pedal to the metal, and then the transmission freaks out and forgets how to switch gears. With cruise control on, the gas was applied to just the right amount to maintain speed up all but the steepest hills. Every once in a while, a passing lane would open up, and Jack would dutifully move into the slow lane so that any of the several cars that were lined up behind him could pass, but it seemed that none of them wanted to be the leader of the line any more than Jack wanted to be, and they all followed us into the slow lane every time this happened.

At this point, the next logical natural phenomenon occurred. A large orange road sign made itself visible during one of the lightning strikes, and Jack was able to read the words: “Caution. Active Fire Area Ahead.” Thinking he must have been mistaken, he continued carefully on. A couple of twists and turns later and a stretch of the mountain revealed itself that was blazing merrily away, adding a more constant, bright orange glow to the more variable white light from the incessant lightning strikes. We were now leading a massive line of cars in the middle of the night through a narrow mountain pass road during a heavy rain and lightning storm next to a wildfire, with no indication that a warm place, or any place for that matter, was waiting for us at the end. The whole thing was rather surreal, and incredibly epic. And all three of us, Anna, Jack and Jeffrey, made it out in one piece.

The bit of mountain that was on fire faded into the distance and we continued on, now down the mountain toward the town. As we approached the town, the rain began to ease up, but it did not entirely stop. We finally crawled into a gas station on the edge of town, and began filling up since, oh right we forgot to mention, we were almost out of gas. The rain at this point was only barely spitting, so we decided to scout out the dispersed camping area, hoping that it would be dry enough. Unfortunately, like the road the night before, this road was not made for 1995 Toyota Camry’s. In fact, we weren’t sure what exactly the road was made for because it had fairly big rocks all over. We supposed the couple people who happened to own tanks and were in the area were snoozing comfortably up the road, but we knew there was no way we could make it even five feet forward, and besides, it was still raining a bit. Anna said she had found another place near the town of Meeteetse, which was about 30 minutes away. At this point, Jack suggested that we just continue driving into the night until we made it all the way to Denver, CO, where our next stop was. Anna pointed out that we wouldn’t make it until 6 AM, and she was pretty sure that our host didn’t really want to wake up that early and let us in. Also, then our sleep schedules would be messed up. Jack wanted to point out that sleeping outside in the rain would disrupt his sleep schedule quite a bit anyway, but he decided against it.

We drove to Meeteetse (no, I can’t pronounce it either) and found the little road that supposedly led to a dispersed camping area. It was much like the the road the night before (of course it was) and we slowly started driving up. We were looking for a reservoir that supposedly had a camping area next to it. What followed was a rather stressful 20 minutes of very slowly driving up a terrible bumpy dirt road, waiting and waiting for anything resembling a pullout to reveal itself. Thankfully, they rain had stopped completely by this time, so we were hopeful that at least wherever we found would be dry. The only sign we found said “No Camping in this Area”. Anna hopped out to look at it more closely, and then got back in the car to say that she was pretty sure that it was talking about the fenced off area, and that we would probably be fine if we found a place that wasn’t fenced. At this point we saw a pair of eyes watching us from the brush. We prayed and prayed that this was only a deer, and continued. Whatever it was disappeared as soon as we moved on. Eventually we made it to a large flat area where there were a couple trucks parked and a shed off to the side. At first we thought it was a ranger outpost, but on closer inspection it appeared to be an irrigation storehouse. The road continued on past, but it got much much worse, so we decided to take our chances with the irrigation crew and pulled into the flat area. By this point it was about 1 AM. We bedded down, Anna hoping that at least the view would be pretty in the morning, and Jack hoping that it didn’t rain and that no wild animals approached during the night. It had been a long day.